
Legend has it that a very clumsy, very enthusiastic Labrador once sat on a picnic basket during a 19th-century cricket match, effectively “inventing” the Eton Mess. While we can’t confirm the dog’s culinary credentials, the result: a chaotic, sugary heap of cream and berries, became a British icon. Today, we step into the kitchen with Aïcha Lahlou (which means sweet in arabic, you can’t make this one up!), the visionary behind the newly launched brand Gram, to see how a master of pastry chef handles one of the most famous “accidents” in pastry history.
There is something inherently rebellious about a dessert that refuses to stay in its lane. The Eton Mess is the quintessential “oops” of the culinary world, a dish that proves that even when things fall apart, they can still taste like a summer afternoon. It’s a swirl of high-society tradition and backyard spontaneity, where the only real rule is that there are no rules just a glorious collision of textures and a celebration of the beautifully imperfect.
Whether she is layering the honeyed nostalgia of her signature Medovick or crafting her celebrated marshmallow chocolate bears, Aïcha’s work has always been a balance of technical mastery and pure, unadulterated joy. For a chocolate expert who treats every… gram…with gravity, the Eton Mess is a chance to let loose. In her hands, the “mess” isn’t just a pile of leftovers; it’s a deliberate, crunchy, cloud-like celebration of what happens when a chef falls in love with the fold.


Left Eton mess by Aïcha Lahlou & Right Chef Aïcha Lahlou photographed by Barbara D.
The Recipe
Ingredients (Serves 4)
Preparation
April 1, 2026
Farah Nadifi
A Crunchy, Cloud-Like Encounter Between British History and Modern Craft
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