
First time in India. First visit to the Taj. Nothing went according to plan. Everything was perfect. India had been a dream of mine for years, and just a few days into my first trip, here I was at the Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai. At 122 years old, it radiates an energy and youthfulness that makes it the most “alive” building I’ve ever walked into.
The Shift in Frequency
Mumbai outside is everything: loud, fast, and full of life in a way that catches you off guard. I was shooting photos from the car window before we’d even arrived, trying to hold onto the chaos. But then you step through those doors and the whole frequency changes. The staircase stops you first : red carpet, wrought iron railings, and hanging chandeliers. Enormous spheres of yellow flowers and deep red roses filled the air with a warm, full scent that hit me before I could even process the view.

Photo by Rajiv Surjoo of the Taj Mahal Palace Entrance
A Front-Row Seat to History
We settled into a window seat in the Sea Lounge, with the Gateway of India right there through the glass. A small bunch of white flowers sat on the sill next to a lamp, while one of the most iconic monuments in India sat outside like it was nothing. Between courses of olive bread with saffron butter, salmon on asparagus, and rich truffle gnocchi, I watched the boats on the water and the people walking along the front.
Hospitality as an Instinct
The real magic happened when our desserts took longer than expected. A plate of nankhatai appeared, we hadn’t ordered them. Then the manager arrived to explain that since lunch had run long, High Tea was on the house. To my surprise, the chef even came out to apologize in person. That’s when I understood: at the Taj, hospitality isn’t a job; it’s an instinct. I sat up straight, realizing this wasn’t just about a building, but a way of being.


Photos by Rajiv Surjoo – Taj Mahal Palace High Tea Delights
The food that followed was ceremonial. The nankhatai melted away with flavors of cardamom and ghee, followed by Victoria Sponge and golden mango mousse. Then came the highlight: Mumbai street food like pani puri, dahi vada, sev puri, served on fine white china under chandeliers. Combining the crunch of tamarind and yogurt with the elegance of the Sea Lounge was a stroke of genius. It wasn’t a gimmick; it was a statement.
The Legacy of 122 Years
As the pianist played in the background, we sipped the Taj House Blend, a mix of Assam and Darjeeling served here since 1903. Looking at a plaque on the wall marking 122 years, I realized that while the street stalls offered incredible flavors, the Taj elevated those same tastes into a different universe. We eventually had to ask the staff to stop bringing food; we were full in a way that felt almost sacred.
More Than a View
The Taj stands at the top, not just for the food, the view of the Gateway, or the iconic staircase. It’s for how they make you feel. They took a minor delay and transformed it into an unforgettable experience we hadn’t even thought to ask for. Such is the Taj.
Visitor Note: Sea Lounge High Tea runs daily from 3:30 to 6:30 PM. Book ahead, dress smart, and be sure to ask for a window seat. Magic is almost guaranteed.
March 31, 2026
Rajiv Surjoo
A First-Timer’s Discovery of Grace, Grittiness, and the Art of Indian Hospitality: An Unexpected Perfection
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